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Beat the BlackJack Dealer

By: reds bets

 

BEAT THE BLACKJACK DEALERS

Anyone willing to learn the right rules and stick to them can beat "21.” These rules not only include proper strategies, but also personal discipline, proper capitalisation and money management. Card Counting is also a tremendous help and should be used wherever possible.
Each time a deck of cards is shuffled, it is true that the way they fall is unpredictable at first. However, do not make the mistake of thinking card games depend on luck. The dealer will get his share of luck and so will the player. The hunch and luck element can be ignored. Base your play on the long average and learn to out-wait the downbeats.
An understanding of percentage is an absolute necessity to winning. Not only must the player know good and bad percentages, he must respect the deadliness of making bad percentage plays and avoid them like poison.
In the game of "21,” the percentage varies according to your strategy. The number one edge that the house has is the “go broke” factor where they take ties that go over a score of 21. If the player goes over the score of 21, the house takes his bet regardless of the fact the dealer may also later go over 21 on his hand.

Let us take time out to explain the rules of the game.

The dealer stands behind a half-round table. Each player makes a bet before the cards are dealt. The player receives two cards face down. The dealer also gets two cards, one of them face up. The dealer does not examine his face down card immediately unless his face up card is a ten or an ace. The player may look at his cards, but must keep them on the table. The object of the game is to score a total of 21 points or to come as close as possible to 21 without going over that score. If the player’s score beats that of the dealer, he wins the amount of his bet. If the player goes over 21 (broke) or the dealer has a higher score, the player loses his bet to the house.

Numbered cards are counted at face value. Face cards (Jacks, Queens and Kings) are counted as tens. The ACE can be counted either as ONE or as ELEVEN. If a hand contains a ten-count card and an ace in the first two cards, it is a natural or “Blackjack.” A natural “21” on the first two cards is a bonus winning hand. No other hand will beat a blackjack. If the dealer also has a two card natural 21, the hand is a tie. The dealer cannot beat a natural even if his score is also 21 if he had to draw cards to do it.
Normally, all bets are paid at even money (1-l). A blackjack natural score of 21 pays 3-2 odds. If you bet a dollar, you would get $1.50 profit. If you bet $2, you would get $3 profit.
If a player is dealt a PAIR, or two cards of the same denomination, he is permitted to “split” the pair and put up another bet, making it into two hands. He is dealt another card to go with each half of the pair. Beyond that, the game proceeds as normal. The splitting of pairs is NOT compulsory.
The player also has another option, known as “Double-down.” If the player has a score of 11 or less on his two cards, he can put up an additional bet amount, or double his original bet. When the player elects to “double-down,” he receives only ONE more card.

The rules of play differ slightly in different casinos. Some will permit a “double-down” only on the first two cards and only when they total 10 or 11. All casinos have a fixed rule that the dealer must stand on 17, however when the total of 17 includes an ace, the rules can differ.
Since an ace can be played two ways, either as ONE point or ELEVEN points, a hand containing an ace is considered “Soft” or more manoeuvrable. A six and an ace, for example, can be counted as totalling 7 or 17. Some casinos require the dealer to “HIT" a soft 17; others have rules stating that the dealer “STANDS” on all 17’s. On an overall basis, it is to the advantage of the person holding the cards to HIT a soft 17, therefore casinos permitting a dealer to hit soft 17 give the dealer a better break on that point.
The expression to “HIT” means the player draws another card. To “STAND” means the individual will settle for the score he has and not take another card. Common practice is to motion towards yourself if you want another card, and to place your cards under your bet money if you wish to stand.
Each player completes his hand in rotation by turn from the dealer’s left to his right. After all players have completed their decisions, the dealer then turns up his face-down card and draws or stands. Then the dealer proceeds to take money or pay money according to the scores.
At the start of the game, before players are asked to hit or stand, the dealer looks at his face-UP card. If he has an ACE or TEN face-up, he has a possibility of a two-card “21” score, or a Blackjack. If his face-up card is an Ace, the player is given the option of making a side bet known as “Insurance.” (Note: not all Casinos offer the Insurance bet.)

When the dealer has an Ace up, if the player wishes to take “Insurance,” he is permitted to bet HALF again as much as his present stake. The Insurance bet pays 2-1, thus the player can keep from losing on that hand IF the dealer has a natural Blackjack. After any or all players wishing to make an insurance bet have done so, the dealer then looks at his face-down card. If he has a ten-count down, making a natural Blackjack, the hand is over and the dealer wins. Those taking Insurance are paid 2-1 on their separate bets.

When the dealer looks at his face-down card, he does not show it to the other players unless he has a natural Blackjack. The only other time the dealer looks at his face-down card at the start of the game is when he has a TEN-count card up. This time, if he has an Ace down, again the hand is over; dealer wins but the player isn’t given a chance to make an Insurance bet. Dealer does not expose a non-10 hidden card until all players have their scores.
The game of “21” favours the house by about 7% if you operate under the same rules as the dealer, meaning you will stop on 17 and draw no further. The house-edge comes from the. tie hands where both player and dealer go over “21.” The house picks up the money BEFORE the dealer goes "broke.” Otherwise all tied hands are meaningless and you neither win nor lose.
Playing the same strategy as the dealer is not good enough to make money for the player except on short runs of luck. If you want to WIN, the time has come to get down to work and learn how to play a better game.

GOOD RULES FOR "21” HITS AND STANDS

If you are playing against multiple decks and not card-counting, here is the most logical strategy you can employ:
Look at the dealer’s face-up card, and then look at the total in your hand. If the dealer has a 4, 5, or a 6 face-up, he is in his weakest position. He is in great danger of going broke when he is forced to draw. Therefore, you will NOT have to take the “go broke” risk yourself, and you will “Stand” on almost any two-card count that you have UNLESS it is 11 or less. In other words, if the dealer has 4, 5, or 6 up, you stand on 12 or more and take no further risk.
Next, if the dealer has a 2 or 3 showing, again he is in danger, and you can stand on a rather weak score. This time, draw the line at 13. Some authorities claim, with some justification, that a dealer showing a “2” up is very tough to beat because, unless he has a 10 down and draws a 10, he may not go broke easily. Therefore, if you wish, you can eliminate the 2 from the above advice and stand on 13 when the dealer has a 3 showing.
On ALL other UP cards which the dealer shows, you must have courage and HIT your hand right up to a 17 minimum. In other words, if the dealer shows a 7, 8, 9, 10 or Ace up, hit everything up to and including 16, and stand on 17.

DOUBLING DOWN

It is to the player’s advantage on occasions to double his bet. This opportunity comes up only when he has two cards totalling less than 12. If the player elects to “Double-down,” he turns his two cards up and puts up the equal additional amount of money. He now receives ONE additional card, face down. He hopes it is a ten-count if he doubled-down on eleven points. Once in a while when doubling-down on eleven points you will draw an ace. Normally the ace is very useful, but this time it is a near disaster. Since the player gets but one card, he has to use the Ace as ONE point, making his total score 12. He can’t use it as 11 points, or he would be over 21. The ace comes in very handy, however, if the player doubled down on a ten-count.
Most players double-down only on 10 or 11, and some casinos permit only these two scores for doubling-down. Most players, therefore, have an automatic rule to always double-down if their score is 10 or ll on their first two cards. This automatic double-down on 10 or 11 is OK if you are not a card counter or if playing against a multiple deck shoe. (The Shoe, or dealing box, holds several decks, usually four.)

Some players double-down on a 9 count but this is ill-advised unless the dealer has a very bad card face up, such as 4, 5, or 6. Some casinos will still permit a "Soft double-down,” meaning if your score includes an Ace. The soft double-down is OK when the dealer has a poor card up, anything from 3 to 7. On a soft double-down, the player is usually seeking a low value card instead of a high card, but a high card can’t cause him to go broke. If he fails to get a little card, he may still win the hand because the dealer is in a weak position and may go broke.
For example, if the player had an Ace and a 3, his score would be 4 or 14. If he drew a 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7, he would have a fair hand. If he drew anything else, at least he couldn’t go over 21. Don’t worry too much about the soft double-down because few places permit it and it comes up very rarely.

SPLITTING PAIRS

Some eager players at a “21” table split every pair they receive. It is as though they can’t see enough cards or wait for the next hand to bet more. When you split a pair or double-down, you bet twice as much. The eager ones seem to lose sight of the fact they can also LOSE twice as much. The splitting of pairs should be done correctly. There are only two kinds of pairs, one could always split and not be far wrong. These are Aces and Eights. However there are times when even those splits aren’t advisable. These situations would come under the heading of card counting, which we will discuss later.

The average player wants a simple but correct strategy to memorise, and the average player doesn’t want to count cards. On that basis, here is our pair splitting advice:
OK to split Aces and 8’s. NEVER SPLIT 5’s or 10’s. The splitting of indifferent cards should be based on what the dealer has UP. Obviously, starting with a count of 10 on one hand is better than starting with two POOR hands of 5 each. It is a waste of time to split 6’s. Starting with a count of 6 is about as bad as starting with 12. WHY put up twice as much when you already are in trouble?

By the same token, there is little reason to split 4’s. A starting count of 8 on one hand may or may not win, as is the case of a hand starting with 4. At least, on such indifferent hands, you are not GAMBLING TWICE AS MUCH just to see more pretty cards. IF the dealer has a poor card up, such as 3, 4, 5, or 6, you might decide to gamble and try to beat him on two hands. The rest of the time, learn to bide your time. It is OK to split 2’s and 3’s if you want to, and should be done against the dealer poor cards, 3 through 6. Splitting any pairs is not advised if the dealer shows a strong card. His strongest card is a 10-count, then the 9, 8, and Ace. A 7 in the dealer’s hand isn’t too dangerous; If he has 10 under (about one chance in three) he has a weak but standing hand. If he has anything else with his 7 he must draw. The dealer is weakest when showing 5 or 6, and is next weakest when showing 4.

TAKING THE INSURANCE BET

When the dealer shows an Ace up, you are asked if you wish to take Insurance on your bet. Most dealers explain Insurance as a good bet if you have a good hand, especially a Blackjack. They point out that if you take Insurance on your Blackjack, you can’t lose even if the dealer also has a natural 21. This sounds logical and 95% of the players repeat it and believe it as fact. The truth of the matter is: Insurance is a losing proposition for the player or the house wouldn’t offer it. Yes, on a short-sighted basis, Insurance will guarantee you can’t lose on a Blackjack in your hand. If the dealer should also have a ten-count below his Ace, you would tie on your Blackjack hands, but you would get paid 2-1 on your Insurance money, thus making money on the hand.
That’s fine if you are only going to play a few hands or a short time. However, by the time the dealer has shown dozens or a hundred Aces up for you to insure, the true average will manifest itself and you will be getting paid on that Insurance just a little less than the normal 2-1 ratio of the odds.

Let us explain: When the dealer has an ace up, only a 10-count card down will complete his natural 21 or Blackjack. How many 10-count cards are there in a deck? Four suits containing a 10, Jack, Queen, King each, or 16 cards. How many cards that will NOT complete the Blackjack in a deck? Four suits containing Aces, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9’s, or 9 times 4 which is 36 cards. That is a ratio of 16 to 36. To be a true 2-1 ratio, it should be 16 to 32. Now, one of the Aces is OUT since the dealer has it up.

Actually then, if we do not look at ANY down cards or count the ratio or know past cards, ONE card is known and 51 are unknown. There are 16 of the 10-counts, 32 of the non-10-counts and THREE ACES remaining. Those THREE ACES are the house percentage. 3-in-51, just a whisker below 6%. Therefore, an Insurance bet has an average of 6% against the player. No matter if you DO have a Blackjack in your hand, if you play the game long enough, you can figure you are losing 6% on every bit of Insurance you buy. So why buy it?

THE RULE IS: Do Not Buy Insurance.

As a matter of fact, IF you have a GOOD HAND, such as two 10’s, a 9 and a 10, or an Ace and a 10, YOU HAVE some of the big cards, making the dealer even less likely to have a good hand. NOW, can you see the folly of the dealer’s statement that insurance is a good buy if you have a good hand? When we say DO NOT BUY INSURANCE this applies only to persons who are NOT card-counters. The Insurance picture changes if you know when the remaining cards are out of ratio. We will get to card counting later. To summarise our basic strategy for non-counters, the table to follow should be memorised. Practice and play with it until you automatically do the correct thing even under pressurised conditions. Any variations due to hunches or other influences will wind up costing you percentage.

BASIC “21” STRATEGY

WHEN THE DEALER HAS THIS CARD FACE-UP:

HIS HAND: HERE IS WHAT YOU DO:
2 or 3 HIT until your score is 13 or more
4, 5, 6 HIT until you get 12 or more
7, 8, 9, 10, Face HIT until you get 17 or more
Ace HIT until you get 17 or more
Do NOT take Insurance

DOUBLE DOWN STRATEGY

Double-down on 11
Double-down on 10, except against dealer 10 value
Double-down on 9, only against dealer 3 through 6

SOFT DOUBLE-DOWN

Ace-2 through Ace-6, against dealer showing 3, 4, 5 or 6.
Where soft double-down not permitted, hit A-2 through A-6.
Hit an Ace-7 soft in your hand if dealer shows 9 or 10. Stand on A-8 and A-9.

PAIR-SPLITTING STRATEGY

Pairs of 2’s through 6’s OK to split against dealer showing 3, 4, 5, 6.
Pair of 4’s split only against dealer 5 or 6.
Pair of 7’s split OK (optional) against dealer 3 through 7.
Pairs of Aces or 8’s OK to split against any dealer card.
DO NOT Split 5’s or 10’s. 9’s optional against dealer weak card, 3 through 7.

CARD COUNTING

There are several advantages to remembering past played cards. You do not have to remember them individually as can some memory experts. All you have to do is count the big ones and little ones and note the shift of the balance. This is a simple trick you CAN LEARN, so give it a try. You will find it greatly improves your “21” game.

For example, to over-simplify, let’s say you had been card-counting and noted that there were only about a dozen cards left. Your count indicated that NOW there were more BIG ones left than little ones, and there were still two or more ACES in the remaining short deck. This, then, would be a good time to increase your wager, for your chances of getting a Blackjack bonus are greatly improved. Also, this is a time when a Double-down would be more likely to catch a big card if you got a double-down beginning hand. In fact, it would be a good time to consider 2-1 a bargain on Insurance if the dealer came up with an Ace. On the other hand, if your card-counting told you the remaining deck was mostly low value cards, it would be a POOR time to double-down, or split Aces, etc., as you will most likely catch little cards on your hits.

The disadvantages of card-counting are more psychological than actual. Some people feel it is too confusing and too much work to vary their strategies. The casinos are fighting the card-counters in many ways. ANY TIME you make a big increase in your bet size, they will exercise their right to shuffle the deck. Recognising the advantages of card-counting at last, the casinos now employ mostly multiple decks.
In fact, many of those using multiple decks will shuffle even those long before they are dealt through. Even against a multiple deck dealing-box or shoe, it helps to card count.

Before we get into wagering and other essentials to a good "21” game, we will take time here to explain card-counting for those who want to use it. It is highly recommended that you PRACTICE this technique and follow these simple directions.

The object in card-counting is to know if the deck is “out of balance.” Normally, there should be an approximately equal ratio of big cards and little cards played. Sometimes the deck will go through several hands and stay closely balanced. Other times it may go through and the high value cards come up early, allowing low value cards to come up later. Then again it might come up more low value cards than high value ones at first, allowing the big cards to show up in later deals. This latter condition is the ideal one, because then you can raise your bet size in time to take advantage of the situation. Nevertheless, even when this ideal condition does not occur, it is advantageous to know that “low value cards are expected” if such is the case.

You will be surprised to learn how easy card counting is to master with just a little home practice. Counting under actual playing conditions is a little harder, but it, too, comes quickly if you apply yourself. It certainly is worth the effort. We suggest that you play for SMALL STAKES while learning. Just remember that gambling is a profession. You can make a good living at a profession, but no profession can be learned quickly. Be willing to spend many, many hours learning your profession properly. It is time well spent.

Get a deck of cards and remove the joker. Turn the cards face up ONE at a time for step one in card-counting. Anytime you see a 7, 8, or 9, FORGET IT; it doesn’t count. Those are “middle cards” and are neutral. We are interested only in the high and low ones. 10’s, Jacks, Queens, Kings, and Aces are HIGH cards. 2’s, 3’s, 4’s, 5’s and 6’s are LOW cards.

Now, as you turn the deck one card at a time, if a HIGH card comes up, the count goes UP ONE. For example, if you first turned a 10, your count would now be UP ONE. If the next card you turned was a Queen, the count would now be UP TWO. Then suppose you turned an 8. This wouldn’t change the count; it is still UP TWO. The next card is a 6. This is a low card, taking the score DOWN ONE. So, instead of UP TWO, your count is now UP ONE. You’ll get the idea pretty fast with practice. Go through the deck several times, or for hours if necessary, getting faster all the time. Get to where you come out EVEN as the last card is turned and you know you are not making mistakes.

Step two is to turn up TWO cards at a time and start to learn to think quicker. NOW you can start using CANCELLATION. If you see both a high one and a low one, they cancel each other and you do not have to move the up or down score. For example, if the count was zero at the start and you turned a 9 and a King, the count would be UP ONE. The nine was neutral. Now, on the second turning of two cards, suppose you turned an Ace and a 4. They would cancel each other as one was high and one was low; the score still remains UP ONE. Stay with turning TWO cards at a time for a while through several decks, or for several hours, until you get fast and accurate.

Next, start turning up three cards at a time and counting as best you can. After you have mastered the ability to go through the deck correctly at the rate of three at a time, you are ready to work on a playing table. As the dealer deals, watch for any card that is exposed, starting with his own plus your own. Here are three cards you already know, so the counting begins. When the first player takes a hit, you see another card. If he turns his hand up, do your best to get a look at what he turned in before the dealer scoops up the cards. The best place to sit is in the middle of the table, (Forget the “third base” nonsense.) Also, you will find a quiet table with less conversation is better for good play. A table with several noisy, drinking players is for the birds. Pick your conditions; it helps.

Another word of advice: DON’T WORRY about what the idiot next to you does. If he hits, draws, or double-downs when he shouldn’t, it makes no difference as the sequence of the next card up can be changed FAVORABLY just as well as it can be changed UNFAVORABLY. Be thankful he exposed more cards for you to count and pay no attention to his game.

After you learn to count the deck and determine the score UP or DOWN, the time has come to learn what to do with this improved knowledge.
The main advantage in card-counting is to know when to increase your bet. This should be done when the deck has more high value cards remaining than low ones, If your score reads UP, it means HIGH CARDS are gone and is NOT a good time for a raise. This is somewhat of a paradox. You either have to reverse your method of counting or your method of determining when the remaining deck is “rich.” Do it any way you like so long as you understand that the time to raise your bet is when more HIGH VALUE CARDS REMAIN. By our method of counting, this is when the score is DOWN. The next question is HOW FAR DOWN?

To become a real expert card-counter, you should also remember how much of the deck remains. This type of counting is beyond the average person so we will try to simplify it for you. You can figure about three cards to each hand. lf it is just the dealer and one player, obviously the deck could go many hands before a shuffle. If there are just two or three players, the deck should go at least four or five times across before needing a shuffle. The dealer doesn’t always deal the deck all the: way down, Each establishment differs in their policy.
You must adapt to whatever you encounter. Just remember, no one is twisting your arm and forcing you to play any place you don’t like. You do not have to play in a place that shuffles too often. At a full table, 6 or 7 players, you can’t figure the deck will go more than twice across. This gives you just one crack at raising your bet. You would do better in a smaller game with just two or three players. You might get two or even three cracks at a rich deck before a new shuffle.

lf you are playing a busy table (single deck game) and only get one shot at card-counting, raise your bet if the last half of the deck appears to be DOWN TWO or more. If you are playing under more favourable conditions, raise when it is DOWN THREE or more (meaning three or more big cards are left than little ones). If you are playing against a DOUBLE DECK, the time element and degree of drop must be doubled. If playing against FOUR decks, quadruple these figures. For example, against a multiple deck shoe, full table of about six players, you can figure on about eight times across before a shuffle, maybe ten times across. If the deck gets DOWN EIGHT or more, it is now “rich” or improved for Blackjacks and double-downs.

The next advantage in card-counting is knowing when to double-down. Obviously if you already have a larger bet posted, the remaining deck is HIGH and this is also a time to take advantage of any double-down situations. When big cards remain, the double-down is a good profit maker. The reverse is also true. Anyone who automatically doubles-down often does so with very little chance of catching a big card. These are the times when you need that added card-counting knowledge. If your count reads high meaning the deck is LOW, skip the Double-downs.

The same advice that applies to double-down applies to pair-splitting, although in this instance, not to all pairs. Mainly it applies to pairs of Aces and Eights, and occasionally to the nines. On these cards you want a big card. On the splitting of small pairs, you can afford to split and catch more than one little card. When you split Aces you draw only ONE card and you want to be sure it will likely be a big one. DO NOT split Aces when your card-counting indicates the deck is overbalanced with smaller cards.

A very important advantage to card-counting is the Insurance Bet. Normally there is a percentage against this kind of a bet. When the count is UP this situation becomes even worse as the dealer is more likely to have a little card face down, so pass Insurance like poison as it is now a big loss. If, however, the count is DOWN, meaning lots of little cards have taken it down and big cards remain, GO FOR that Insurance Bet; it can be a tremendous bargain. You won’t win them all or even half of them, but you’ll do better than the normal ratio, and at 2-1, that makes money.

To summarise card-counting, by all means do it, with single decks or multiple decks, every little bit of percentage counts. Increase your bet and take double-downs when count is DOWN, big cards remaining. Bet the minimum when count is UP, and at that time avoid insurance, double-downs and Ace splitting. Do all of this and you will be way ahead of the average “21” player. They will think you are “lucky” and guessing right, but you won’t be guessing. Unfortunately, the house spots the smart card counters, so you will have to indulge in special wagering plans and tactics which we will take up next.

THE PYSCHOLOGICAL BATTLE

Knowing the right thing to do at all times and sticking to it under casino conditions isn’t easy to do. Depth of understanding, self control and patience are rare qualities. The atmosphere of gaiety, drinking and gambling can prove powerful influences or distractions. It is possible to have fun and to win, too, but it takes a bit of time to get your game down so well that you can play it properly along with, anything else. The drinking is strictly taboo. You may think one little drink won’t hurt and that it might sharpen your wits. Don’t kid yourself. Anything that even slightly makes you a little bolder or in any way loosens up your inhibitions will get to you and destroy your chances of beating that tough percentage.

Compare it to a prize fight in the ring against a tough old pro. If you let your guard down for an instant, he will clobber you. Furthermore, you deserve it. Gambling is a business; if you want some fun, get your gambling done first and then look at the girls or the shows later.
The toughness of the game itself will create many misgivings. That little voice in the back of your mind, known as fear of losing, or disbelief that you really can win, will get louder. If you listen to that voice and lose your nerve, you are as good as licked. The best armour against fear is a strong faith based on research experience and understanding. These, too, take time to acquire. So play the game correctly for a long time in practice sessions, then a long time in cheap chip sessions until you are absolutely convinced you CAN WIN and you can weather the occasional prolonged downbeats that are so much a part of the game.

CAPTALISATION

A gigantic mistake made by 95% of all inexperienced gamblers is to miscalculate the reserve capital requirements. There is no such thing as playing too small with too much reserve. A player with a big reserve making small bets is able to wait out the bad stretches and still be in business when the good ones come along. This kind of player gets more chances to QUIT AHEAD. If, for example, you have only 10 times the size of your bet in reserve, surely you can see that all the game has to do is swing 10 units the wrong way and you are knocked out.

Here is some news for you: any casino game can easily swing 50 or 100 units in either direction. These swings are not 50 or 100 consecutive wins or losses. Knowing that you can get knocked out if it swings 50 units away from base in the wrong direction, WHY PLAY unless you have more than 50 times your bet in reserve? Oh, so you are hoping for a little run of luck? Forget it! You can’t bank luck. The swings of the game are QUITE NORMAL and they are not luck. If it takes a big swing to get you ahead, you might have a long wait and the chances are you will give back your little gains and perhaps go broke while waiting for it. It is far better to have an organised wagering plan based on proper capital calculations.

MONEY MANAGEMENT

Some of the readers of this book have already learned many lessons the hard way. It doesn’t take too long around gambling games to learn that steep progressions can and will “tap out” and cause your destruction. “Doubling-up” will grind along sometimes for quite a while making a little, but then along comes a bad stretch and wipes out your gains. Slower progressions than “doubling-up” are merely borrowing a little more time, but they, too, eventually run into trouble.
There are two routes to success in casino speculation. One is a very conservative well-capitalised and well calculated wagering plan, and the other is to play a “Swinger’s” game. Let us discuss the "Swinger’s” game, or High Roller’s game first.To play a good Swinger’s Game, you push your luck when winning and hold your bet down when losing. The object is to let your bet ride or to push your play up in stages when you are in a successful cycle. More people would succeed at the Swinger’s Game if they played a better percentage game to start with and didn’t put all their faith in catching a good swing of luck. With good strategy you are on a sound footing, but trying to out-guess the swings is a very tough achievement. First you must beware of greed. All too many players get ahead and then in their desire for more they stay too long and get wiped out by a downswing. The time to quit on a swinger’s game is AFTER a winning period that now seems to be turning sour. Quit before you give it all back. Take a rest or breather. When you return, start in again on a smaller scale, Don’t try to keep pushing the action up and up unless you continue to win and win. To play a good Swinger’s Game you should have AT LEAST 100 times your maximum bet in reserve. This refers to the maximum you will bet of YOUR money. For example, if you are a card counter and you bet ONE unit when losing or the count is bad, and you bet FIVE UNITS when the situation looks good, then your reserve should be 500 units. If THREE units is your top bet and one is your bottom bet, then 300 units is suggested.
A High Roller or Swinger can shoot for a big winning if he likes. Just remember, the chances greatly diminish the bigger the gain one tries to make. The time to start pushing your luck is AFTER you have won two hands in a row.
Any prolonged straight runs that go several or more in YOUR direction will come when they are good and ready; you can’t call the turn. Therefore, don’t play by hunch and raise your bet in anticipation. WAIT until you have definite proof a run HAS STARTED. This will eliminate a tremendous number of false starts.

A prolonged straight run is not the only kind of a good run of luck. The dealer has to win some of the time even when things are going your way in general. The next type of good swing to try to catch is based on a majority of wins over a reasonable period of time. Such a lucky period might last ten minutes; it might last an hour or even longer. To capitalise on this kind, push your bet up by stages. Set aside about 10 units for your starting scale. If this is successful and shows a good profit, double the stake making your next bet TWO units, setting aside 20 units of capital. If this is successful, move up to a scale of three units and so on. When luck turns downward, return immediately to the ONE unit scale. With a little thought and a little practice, you can work out your own personalised rate of increase. Remember, on the Swinger’s Game, increases are made only on GAINS, not out of your larger reserve. You have to make a few false starts before you catch the session you are looking for. It is THERE if you have the patience, capital and understanding to play it right and wait for it.

Next we come to the Systematic or Grinder’s approach to beating the games. This one can go broke, too, if "miscalculation” or greed steps in. The main thing that knocks out systematic wagering players is insufficient research into CAPITALISATION. They check a few hundred plays or test a thing a little while and then figure it won’t get much worse than they have seen, so it is "off to the races” they go. We are not going to waste time explaining all of the foolish wagering plans that are TOO STEEP. If you feel that the conservative but workable plan we do give is too slow, we would like to point out that all you have to do is BET BIGGER UNITS if you wish to make more money. This is far more logical than trying to make more money by taking wild chances.

There are TWO types of bets in our suggested wagering plan. First, we have what we call a BASE BET. This is always the bottom or minimum bet, ONE UNIT. A “UNIT” can be any sized bet, depending on how rich you are. Some people start off with $1 chips. Their unit is ONE DOLLAR. Some people start off with $5 chips. Their base unit is FIVE DOLLARS. Again, as in the Swinger’s game, your reserve should be at least 300 or 500 times your base unit.

Our wagering plan is very simple yet quite effective over a reasonable period. WHENEVER the run is unfavourable or the deck count is unfavourable, bet your MINIMUM unit. WHENEVER favourable runs or conditions exist, GO ON THE WAGERING SCALE where you left off. The first part of the wagering scale is a “DEBT FIGURE.” This Debt Figure is your LOSS since the last time you were EVEN or ahead. For example, if you were behind $20 after an hour of play, your “Debt Figure” would be -20. If you lose track of this figure in your mind, you can usually refresh your memory by counting your chips.

With the Debt Figure in mind, whenever you are due to make a Wagering Scale bet, the bet amount is always 10% of the debt. Not 100%, as would be the case with doubling up, but 10% or 1/10th. This 10% applies to non counters or persons playing a multiple deck shoe and not counting the cards. The same procedure applies to card-counters but with one difference. They also bet 10% of the DEBT if they are in a favourable run; however, if they are in a favourable run AND ALSO on a FAVOURABLE DECK SITUATION, they would bet MORE UNITS. For example, take a card counter who bets ONE unit when at base and THREE units when the deck is favourable. Now take this same card counter and give him a DEBT FIGURE of -20. If he had won two hands or more in a row, this is a Favourable Run Situation. The 10% bet would call for a play of TWO units, the same as it would for a non counter. HOWEVER, if, at this same time the deck was “High Cards Remaining,” he would bet three times the two units, or SIX units.

One more feature to our wagering plan should be included. It is optional and you can leave it out if you like. By using 10% of the debt as our wagering scale bet, we accomplish always putting 10% more on the winners than the losers over the long average.
As previously stated, this may seem slow, but IF you play a good game, it works nicely whenever you run into a debt period; it is sensibly conservative and will eventually get you out with a profit. It will also overcome a small negative percentage. To make the wagering plan a little more effective, we suggest you use a "takeout” of ONE UNIT every ten hands, then add this ONE UNIT onto your debt as you put the chip into your pocket. For example, if your debt was 20, you bet 2 and won, your debt would now be 18.

However, if this was the 10th hand, at which time you were due to make a “takeout,” put the chip in your pocket and call the debt 19 instead of 18. After you have placed dozens of hands and your debt goes up and down, all you have to do is get the debt down to base and the “takeout” in your pocket will represent a nice profit. Otherwise, to make a profit you have to get back to base and then go over onto the winning side for a while. Most of the time you will vary from the winning side to the losing side, back and forth. This “takeout” of one unit for every ten hands played helps organise your play on a profit-taking, business-like footing. Once the systematic wagering player gets his losses back, or the scale down to base, he can become a little bolder and switch over to the Swinger’s type of game. If his effort to push the action up to a larger scale out of his profits doesn’t work out, then he can again become conservative and grind it back. No matter what kind of a player you choose to be, learn to make an art of the best trick of all, namely to Quit AHEAD.

You might remember this about Gambling Casinos. They are open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. No one is twisting your arm and forcing you to play. You don’t have to stay in one spot; you can always move to one where conditions are more favourable. You can always take up the action LATER, after a rest, a change of casinos, at any hour more to your choosing. If you aren’t feeling up to your best or things seem to be going poorly, TAKE A BREAK. If you have played correctly and a good game but just can’t seem to get out of debt, don’t let it make a nervous wreck out of you. Every business or professional man has had his bad stretches. Know what you are doing is as correct as you can make it and have patience and faith. Your time will come; it is just a matter of giving it a fair chance.

Here is a summary of good gaming advice:

Never make a bad percentage play.
Play a correct strategy.
Pay no attention to other people.
Skip the drinks during business hours.
Have adequate capital, patience, faith and fortitude.
Play only under comfortable and favourable conditions and with adequate time.
Don’t get carried away with gambling fever or greed.
Manage your money intelligently and learn to QUIT AHEAD.

Article Source: http://www.myhotarticles.com

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